Overview
I have a Proxxon MF70 Mini-Mill which I have mostly used to dap stripwood. Using Dremel router bits this works very well. The hardest part being the setting up. Since I enjoy the actual modeling the extra time spent to dap the timbers for me is part of that enjoyment. In any case this is how the timbers may have been joined in “real life” for strength. |
Angled JointsMost of the dapped joints are straight forward in that you simply make a notch across a piece of wood equal to the width of the framing member that fits into it. The ‘problem’ is when there is an angle to the joinery and for me this raises the question as to how best do this. Following are various joints with one timber at 45° to the other timber and my comments on each. I colored the 45° timber white and the vertical timber blue. These are 1/4″ stripwood which represents 12″ timbers full-size. The cutter represents a Dremel 1/4″ router bit. |
A
Still .. not prototypical in many cases. |
B
I only put this in to make a point. |
C
The other side of the joint would be easy to file. |
D
The flattened ‘tip’ of the vertical beam again would be easy to do. With the beam laid flat a sanding block would ensure the angle was accurate. This would require sanding three angles. |
E
A sanding block with a 45° side would make quick work of the angled tip on the vertical timber This only requires sanding two angles and is my favorite method. |
F
The notch in the vertical timber would require a jig and some fiddly work. It would also require that the vertical timber be slid into the joint from the side .. still more fiddly work. |
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