Fig 10

I disassembled the car. It was held together my rivets – easy enough to cut through. I left the metal parts in a tub of Brake Fluid for a day or so to remove all of the paint . A little scrubbing with a toothbrush and I had bare metal to work with.

This part (Fig 10) was plastic – while the brake fluid won’t harm the metal parts … caution should be taken with plastic parts as some will soften/melt. I didn’t chance it and left the paint on..

Since this was an English car the steering wheel was on the right.

Fig 11

I used a razor-saw to slice off the bits on either side of the center console and flip them so the steering wheel would be on the left. (Fig 11)

I hadn’t added it yet when I took the photo but a piece of styrene on the left filled in the gap. Once the styrene cement had dried I added epoxy on the side that doesn’t show. The dash/window frame will be glued into the cowl.

Looking at this photo now .. I am thinking that this would be a place where a jewelers saw would have been a better choice.

Disassembled & Primed

Fig 12

(Fig 12) I glued the body to the chassis. Once the dash/window frame was nicely secured to the cowl then the assembly would be glued to the chassis and against the body.

I also removed the center bar on the window frame as it was WAY too thick (I could have replaced it but decided to just have a large window). The side posts were also too thick .. just how much work it would take to thin them .. donno. I suppose I should say .. how much I thined them depended on how much work it would be.

Note: Now with my 3D printer I would print me a new frame.

I also shot all the metal parts with some gray primer.

Dry Fitting

Fig 13

I dry-fit the parts (Fig 13). You can see that I have removed the center bar on the window frame.

Note: Ahh .. that small window in the body is a bit thick .. were I to do this again I would take a Dremel to the backside of that to make it thinner.

Make it green

Fig 14

(Fig 14) Had fun playing with paint here.

The underside was sprayed with a dark brown and then a misted iron oxide color. I used the hair spray technique where hairspray is used as a mask. That was followed by a light green and then a darker green painted from directly above. Finally the roof was painted with the brown/iron oxide color. Prior to spraying that on I protected the wooden roofing portion with a Masking Fluid.

Still Green

Fig 15

(Fig 15) I used a brush and water + Windex to wear away some of the paint so paint underneath would show. Used MIG Brown/Black washes to highlight details. Put the old wheels on for the photo but these would be replaced by wheels more age appropriate for a 1927 Talbot.

Wheels and Tires

Fig 16

These are the appropriate wheels for this vehicle as close as I could come as I explained previously. The wheel and tire combo on the left came with the Talbot. It is obvious that this was NOT from 1927. The next wheel and tire combo to the right is the tire and wheel to the right of that put together for the photo. (Fig 16)

Fig 17

A closer look at the 3D printed tires and wheels (Fig 17). It is still hard to make out details as Shapeway’s Fine Detail Plastic is simply hard to photograph when in the raw state.

Note: My preferred resin for my MSLA printer is Gray. A neutral tone which photographs much better.

Fig 18

Painted (Fig 18). The wheels were painted with Testor’s Model Master Pale Green and the hub with FolkArt acrylic ”Sterling Silver’ and MIG Brown Wash to make the details ‘pop’.

Tires are flat black from a rattle can with Dr O’Brien’s Grundy Gray and White scrubbed over them.

Fig 19

(Fig 19) Just to give an appreciation of the size of these wheels and tires .. here is one sitting on a penny. Dammit! The curse (or saving) of the digital close-up shows where I need to touch up!! 🙂

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