Where’s the Floor?

The next thing I had to do was locate the floors/ceilings. This was mostly so I could locate the windows. While ordnances vary widely, 24″ from the floor is very common if the window is six feet or greater from the ground .. has to do with children falling out the window. While my structure most likely pre-dates any such ordnances I will use that using the “Theory of Mediocrity”.

I may put in a simple floor/ceiling as a view block .. and if I do that I may put in lighting. Since I have the LEDs and wire I may just do that .. “just in case”.

In any case knowing where the floors/ceilings are allows me to know where to add things like ducting and pipes for the ‘machinery’ installed in the building. Note that I know those 45° supports would wiggle all over the place .. cross-bracing might work.

The Exhaust Shed

As I have stated in the past, one of the nice things about virtually modeling in Sketchup is the ability to print plans out to exact size. I took the Exhaust Shed and stripped off everything but the walls, floor and ceiling. I then unfolded the structure and added tabs and fold lines.

It printed out nicely. The hard part is cutting on the lines. Sometimes I am more like a 4 year old with a crayon and a coloring book. *sigh*

The Exhaust shed – cont…

Here I printed the shed out, cut, folded, glued using 1/8″ matchstick wood (you can buy a large bag at Hobby Lobby). I only printed out one .. this is the same shack photographed twice and “magically” combined into one photo. The fans are below ..

Walls

Walls are mostly finished. I say “mostly” as I was watching videos by Jason Jensen (Jason Jensen Trains) an Doug Foscale (FOS Scale Models) where they used a razor blade (Jason) or an X-Acto Chisel Blade to lift some of the clapboard to simulate warping and I want to try that.

The only openings are for the windows on the right side and the door on the front.

I used 1/4″ poplar square dowel (Lowes) for bracing just because I had it on-hand .. and it is stronger than bass wood. The cost at Lowes is $1.21 for 36″ or $.40 a foot. 1/4″ Basswood from Hobby Lobby is $2.99 for 48″ or $.74 a foot. Makes sense to use the poplar for bracing .. but honestly .. I have used it for an ore bin .. bit harder to work with than Basswood but machines better.

Distressing

I am using there forms of distressing for the clapboard

  • Lift Clapboard: Using an X-Acto chisel blade to slip under the lower edge of clapboard and prying up. It works better (IMO) to run the blade down the length of the clapboard before prying up.
  • Cut Boards: Length of boards vary but about 14 ft seems about the maximum length (that is from an article on the diagonals and stringers for a timber trestle. That number varies depending on location and kind of trees available for lumber but that 14 ft I remember). Boards would be spiced over underlying studs as will be nail holes. For my extension that 14 ft is 3.5 inches in O scale and the widest section of the building is just under 2-3/4″ or about 11 ft. which means I can get away with out any cut boards at all if I wish. I will add some anyway since boards would have been cut to fit the window openings and door .. would make sense to make use of the lengths that had been cut off if possible.
  • Nail holes: This can be a ore point whether adding nail holes is reasonable in scale. My reasoning is to add them before distressing the boards with a wire brush and paint which should make them blend in well. Nail holes would be over the underlaying studs. Studs are located anywhere from 16″ to 24″ apart but definitely along the edges of windows, doors and other openings.
  • Wire Brush: Running the wire brush over the clapboard to add a bit of woodgrain texture and blend in prior distressing methods.

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